Sunday, October 11, 2009

Malawi is a Place

I stepped off a bus in Liwonde and was immediately engulfed by a mob of young bike-taxi boys. Overwhelmed by their intensity, I squirmed through their arms to catch my breath away from the diesel fumes. They all watched me, sitting there acting cool, as if I didn't care whether I arrived to the national park before dark or not. I scanned their faces, trying to identify the most benevolent. "You!", I signaled to one of them in an instantaneous uproar of disappointment, "I need a bike for myself and for my 20 kg pack", I said with elegant hand gestures. And with that we were off, hurtling down the dusty road towards Mvuu Camp.

Moments later...

Dave: How do you say "hello" in Chichewa?
Bike-Taxi Boy: "Azungu"
Dave: Thank you boy

A few more moments later...

Dave: Azungu! (waving frantically at villagers)
Villagers: (collective) Hahah (many keeling over)

What nice people I thought to myself.

Next day at camp, as I greet a park ranger...

Dave: Azungu!
Park Ranger: huh?
Dave: A-ZUN-GU!
Park Ranger: Hahah (also keeling over)... that means "white person"
Dave: Damn




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